Some Reminiscences of Helmsdale
Written by
Alexander Gunn aka A Native of Badbea.
Published
in the Northern Ensign on 22 July 1890. Part A
To The
Editor of the Northern Ensign
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| Helmsdale 2008 |
Sir. -Your readers and the natives
of Helmsdale have been treated to a sketch of the present state of the place. I
propose with your permission and that of your readers, to give a sketch of what
the place was like in my young days, when I believe it was in a more
flourishing condition than it is at present.
Distillery and Meal Mill
The time was in my recollection when the distillery was in full swing, carried
on by William and Alexander Simpson, who were extensive fishcurers as well.
They also carried on farming at the Boghals. There was a meal mill in full
operation at Navidale, the miller being Robert Gunn, ‘Au Rean.’
Limekiln
The limekiln
which stood to the west of the distillery was used in burning lime for a supply
to those building houses in Helmsdale and the neighbourhood. About this time
the pier was extended to its present dimensions and the wall facing the river and
the outside of the basin was built.
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| Old Telford Bridge and curing yard Now Timespan c1910s |
Fishcuring
Fishcuring was
carried on most extensively on both sides of the river. On the north side the
curers were Jarvise, John MacLeod, Hampton, William and Alexander Simpson,
Kenneth Sutherland, Donald Mackenzie, D. Cooper, Peter Cuthbert, ‘Petrie,’
Robert Fraser, Andrew Mackay, and Methven. On the south side, below the castle,
later on, were Donald Ross, John Mackay, ‘Heylum,’ Alexander Bruce, Angus
Proucle and Alex Macleod. These were, as far as I remember, the curers. There
would be fully 200 boats fishing in Helmsdale about this time.
Fishing Boats
I have seen the river from the bridge to the end of the pier crammed with boats and ships, so that one could walk from end to end of the harbour over boats. Thousands of pounds were circulated in the place during the fishing season, and a large number of coopers were employed during the rest of the year.
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| Helmsdale Harbour c1880 |
My Comments:
The village of Helmsdale is a few miles south of Badbea on
the east coast of Sutherland where the Helmsdale River flows into the North
Sea. The new Helmsdale village was planned on a grid pattern by the
Sutherland Estates in 1814 at the time crofters were being cleared. The
intention was that crofters could make a living fishing herring. There were
fish in abundance but it was dangerous work for men who initially had few of
the skills to man fishing boats and bring in herrings in the North Sea. The
Helmsdale harbour was built in 1818 and extended in 1823 and again in 1892. It
was one of the largest herring fleets in Europe.
The old distillery is shown on the map as a long building
over looking the sea to the east of the village. The distillery was originally
run by A & D Simpson between 1825 and 1831 and then by Alexander Simpson
& Co between 1831 and 1837 and finally by James Christie and Co. Christie
went bankrupt and the distillery was closed and dismantled. A modern house is
now on the site of the old distillery.
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| House called 'Lobster Pot' on site of old distillery |
The meal mill at Navidale was somewhere near the ruins
visible in this Google Earth picture.
I can’t find any trace of the lime kiln but see Geograph picture for
what they look like. Lime kilns were just a large furnace with an opening at
the top. Chunks of limestone from a quarry would be layered in the kiln with
coal or peat and then set alight. The fire would burn slowly for a day or two.
When it was cool the quicklime that had accumulated at the base would be raked
out. It was a very energy intensive process.
Limewash or white wash was used extensively on house walls and in
cellars to improve the light.
