Monday, March 26, 2018

Sheep and Deer v. People in Berriedale Part A


To the Editor of the Northern Ensign 31st March, 1887

Written by Alexander Gunn and published in the Northern Ensign on 13 April 1887 – Part A

Note: This Letter to the Editor of the Northern Ensign gives the same data as a previous letter dated 27 March 1884. I blogged that letter in November 2013. Gunn spent a lifetime keeping the injustices of the evictions before the public, always backed up by meticulous evidence. So at the risk of being repetitive I will publish this 1887 version of the same data over two blogs. If it's good enough for him, it's good enough for me!

“The Injustice so palpable! The inhumanity so great” from Real Scottish Grievances by Donald Ross



Sir; - 

"Your correspondent “Sans Souci” in his interesting letter in your columns recently, would be none the worse of some little information about the state of matters in Berriedale in olden times. Sir John Sinclair is credited with being the author of all this desolation so graphically described by your correspondent. This is not the case, though, he was the originator of the clearances. He depopulated the two Straths of Berriedale, except what was done by James Horne who succeeded Sir John – not Donald Horne, as stated by your correspondent, though Donald may be said to have given the finishing touch to the desolating work on the estate. 

Previous to these clearances, there was a thriving herring fishing carried on at both Newport and at Auchnacraig. In the latter place I remember thirteen boats being engaged at the herring fishing and giving employment to a large number of the inhabitants of Auchnacraig and Badbea, and circulating a large amount of money in the district. I cannot speak as to the number of boats that fished in Newport, but there, too, a considerable number of the inhabitants got remunerative employment, and the money circulated in the district must have been a very great boon to the poor people."

"In the report of the Royal Commission on the crofters, it was stated that deer forests were the means of doing so much good in the way of finding employment for the people, and circulating as much money as if these districts were under cultivation. This statement is not borne out by facts, as any one acquainted with the state of matters before and after the clearances can testify. But for the benefit of your correspondent I will give him the number of families evicted on the Berriedale estate by Sir John Sinclair and his successors:"



A REAL “SCOTTISH GRIEVANCE.”

Duncan – “Oh but my mother is frail, and can’t be sent out of the country in that ship; will you not let Flora and her ---
Factor - [sternly] “No no lad – move on with the old woman; she will not be here in the way of his Lordship’s sheep and deer.”
Illustration from Real Scottish Grievances by Donald Ross. 
It refers to Lord Macdonald’s evictions at Boreraig on Skye. Mitchel Library Glasgow.  
See Electric Scotland for the terrible story of what happened to 96 year old Flora http://www.electricscotland.com/history/clearances/29.htm

 
"In Berriedale, namely from the Millery Strath - Glutt, one tenant; Eskvin, one; Eshmacalmag, one;  Haborgue, one;  Eshnabing, one;  Upper Millery, one; Lower Millery, one;  Ardachigh, one; Toreshey, one; Duin, three; Taigh-an-Duin, one; Dalgheamich, two; Knock Feune, one; Ellaw-an-Duinag, one; Upper Borgue, two; Remalone, one; - in all 20."
 Wag More,  Old pre-clearances sheiling site


"In the Langwell Strath there were evicted from the Inver, five; Knocktarinrectan, one,  Elanloisg, one; Capernach, one; Taigh-an-Asary, one; Ruharigy, one; Tiornal, one; (held by George Gunn who had seven sons, all of whom were upwards of six feet, and having no equals in the country – some of them still alive); Taighnault, one; Bardnachie, one; Struan, one; Bualnohaoden, one; Garvary, one;  Breainheaglash, one;  Auldnaheath, one; Wag More, one; Uag Bhaig, (or Wag Baig), one; Badaskary, two;  Borgue of Langwell, one (where my great-grandfather lived during the proprietorship of Sutherland of Langwell); Corrag, one; Bualtarach, one – in all 25."

Uag Bhaig, or Wag Baig on Langwell water. My great great grandfather John McLeod worked here as a shepherd for James Horne before he was sent to work at Rumsdale


"In the Ousdale district, there were evicted from the township of Ousdale nine families; Borgue of Ousdale, two; Struie, eight; Clashvuick, three – in all 22. These were all evicted by Sir John Sinclair – a total of 67 families, all in comfortable circumstances. But the evil did not stop here, for the Hornes – first James and then Donald – following Sir John’s example, evicted from the cairn, four families, from Rinsary, six; Badbea, seven; Auchnacraig, thirteen – in all 30 – or a grand total from the estate of Berriedale of 97 families to make room for sheep and deer. Thus a population of close upon 500 were set adrift to gratify the whims of a trio of landlords."

To Be Continued.. 

My Comments:


The mention of George Gunn’s seven tall strapping sons was not just bragging but also was about the long-held custom that such superbly strong, fit men could be brought in as Highland soldiers to defend their own people or Imperial Britain – as they had done at the Napoleonic wars for example. In the past a family like that would have been worth some sort of respect, or merit from the Laird. But seven sons no longer saved them.








Wednesday, March 14, 2018

The Trump of the Archangel


AN OLD MAN’S NARRATIVE OF THE ULBSTER ESTATE EVICTIONS Part C
To the Editor of the Northern Ensign
Sir,-



"Mr James Waters statements regarding the evictions and vast clearances, with the names of ministers, and about four mills in good working order, and the church converted into a sporting house and a kennel for dogs – all this is strictly true."


Extract from Gloomy Memories in the Highlands of Scotland 
by Donald MacLeod. 
The kennel for dogs in Mr Sage’s study room was Strathnaver


"Will Mr Logan inform me who was the gentleman who made the first eviction in the north of Scotland for a sheep range and imported merino sheep to stock the cleared ground!" 

Sir John Sinclair (again!)

"I am not speaking from hearsay, but what I saw myself, and the persons whose names I give, all heads of families I well remember. I do not include the old names I gave you of the township of Rumsdale."

"There are three large cemeteries in this clearance, with beautiful tombstones, some of polished granite, and many a rich slab of marble; and the inscriptions bear witness to the wealth and generosity and piety of the people of that locality in past times."

Dalnawillan Cemetery
Dirlot Cemetery
Achreny Cemetery

"These rich cemeteries, indicate the love the living had for the dead in erecting over them costly and interesting monuments. In these beautiful cemeteries there are none to be buried now. All the beautiful straths there are now depopulated, and the graves will get rest until the great day when the trump of the archangel shall sound."
 – I am, etc.

One who was evicted and One who knows

Northern Ensign 21 Feb 1884



My Comments:


I haven’t got a copy of the statements by Mr James Waters but think he had read some of the reports of Donald MacLeod.

Donald MacLeod was born in Rosall, Strathnaver near the end of the eighteenth century. He witnessed the horrors of the Sutherland clearances and eventually went to Edinburgh and wrote very courageously of what he had seen. His letters were published in the Edinburgh Weekly Chronicle and other papers. Much later his letters were republished in revised form to counter the views in a publication by Harriet Beecher Stowe’s Sunny Memories.


Tombstone in Achreny Cemetery. 
George McLeod Dalnaha Died 16 March 1848 
and others
Re the three cemeteries in the locality of Rumsdale I have selected what seems to me to be the cemeteries referred to. Some time back I took photos in the old Dalnawillan and Achreny (also known as Acharynie) cemeteries which certainly had very fine tombstones erected long ago. Climbing over the wall into Achreny was a bit disconcerting from a safety point of view with the foot stones becoming almost dislodged now. I haven’t visited Dirlot but it can be seen to have also had very elegant and substantial tombstones put in there.

Achreny from the road.


The beautiful straths are certainly depopulated now as the Google Earth views show. 



Monday, March 12, 2018

The Evicted


AN OLD MAN’S NARRATIVE OF THE ULBSTER ESTATE EVICTIONS Part B

To the Editor of the Northern Ensign

Sir,-


"In one of his recent letters to the Ensign, Mr Logan said that neither Sir Tollemache Sinclair or any member of his family ever evicted any human being from the township of Rumsdale since the creation of the world. Now I will give Mr Logan the history of the township of Rumsdale, Dalganachan, and the Glutt, beginning with the period of 60 years before Mr Logan was born."
Rig cultivation at Rumsdale
Faint lines in the grassland north west of Rumsdale park show that rig cultivation took place here before sheep farming displaced the pre-Improvement township.

Names of those Evicted


"John Gunn or Manart, Henry Macdonald, Hugh Campbell, John Campbell, Widow Matheson, Widow Robert Mackay, Alex. Gunn, and Gabriel Campbell, Dalganachan; Andrew Stuart, Peter Stuart, and William Gunn, Glutt; Alex Macdonald, the celebrated deer stalker, William Ross, Donald Gunn – every one of them was a tenant of Ulbster, and if Mr Logan will consult the old rental book he will find their names there." 

Rig Cultivation by the Rumsdale Water
The old lines of rigs can still be seen on this haugh alongside the Rumsdale Water. 

"When Donald Horne took the township for sheep walks, all the tenants mentioned by Mr James Waters were evicted by the Ulbster family. After this, Donald Horne took all the townships of Camster for a sheep walk, and 25 families were evicted by the house of Ulbster."

Shieling site near Camster, Caithness
These shieling hut remains are the most visible in a group of hut and pen remains.

More Names


"The list that Mr James Waters gave is not correct. There were more evicted than he gave in his list, and to show the public that there were more, I will mention a few of those townships, and the head of each family, viz.: - Benalisky – Hugh Mackay, Angus Mackay, John Reid, William Gunn, Neil Gunn. Ishnamult – Robert Gunn, John Macdonald, Donald Sutherland. Backlass – Donald Macdonald, Peter Sinclair, Robert Henderson, Kenneth Henderson, Donald Cameron, Alex. Cormack. Bullmore – John Sutherland, John Gunn, George Miller, William Macleod, George Macleod, George Sutherland, Marcus Gunn. Scorelett – John McDonald, John McKay, William McDonald, Robert Gordon, Donald Ross, (miller), Kenneth Henderson, William Henderson, Donald Gunn (Beg), John Gunn, Adam Gunn, Alex. Gunn, Roderick Mackay. Marwood Sutherland, Neil Gunn, Widow Gunn, Dalnaha (after John Waters’ death) – Alex. McLeod, John Sutherland, or Buails, William Gunn, Alex. Campbell, Hugh Campbell, Mrs McDonald, Mrs Waters. Carnmuick – Neil Gunn, William Gunn, Alex. Macleod, William Macleod, Alex. Mackay, Fila Mackay, Ockerland – William Sutherland, Robson Sutherland, keeper, Marwood Sutherland. Croick – Robert Gunn, John Gunn, Hugh Mackay. Dirlot – Alex Mackay, Colin Mackay, George Sutherland, Marcus Gunn, Alex. Gunn, James Bruce. Smeraidh – Alex. Sutherland or Enish, William Sutherland or Enish, John Gunn. Regarding the township of Dirlat, Mr James Waters made a mistake. In his list he gave five names of Grants, but they all belonged to one family."


The Glutt and Glutt Water
View north from Round Knowe towards Morven and The Glutt .


"All the persons I mention were heads of families. Probably death took some of them away; but all the rest were evicted by the House of Ulbster."

One who was evicted and One who knows

Northern Ensign 21 Feb 1884

To Be Continued

Dalganachan
An abandoned and derelict steading on the track to The Glutt 

My Comments:


The writer of this article clearly puts the blame for evictions on Sir John Sinclair.
Sir John Sinclair had been busy producing his famous “Statistical Reports” of Scotland’s Parishes and also bringing flocks of sheep into Langwell. He became financially embarrassed, and this was probably the reason for his selling Langwell estates in 1813.

Rumsdale Circular Feature
The dyke of the 19th century sheep park bisects a circle of rushes which is probably related to use of the site before sheep farming. 


James Horne of a firm of Edinburgh lawyers bought the entire estate of Langwell. Horne was likewise interested in introducing sheep to the north.

Sir John Sinclair also relinquished his Caithness lands of Benalisky and Rumsdale. These lands were then occupied and managed by Donald Horne, nephew of James Horne. Donald Horne was soon working at “improving” the lands of Rumsdale and in 1822 he removed the six tenants there. 

Drove Road near Rumsdale
A very old track, later used as drove road. This is a branch of the Ca na Catanach track which ran from Thurso to Kinbrace


Dalganachan was occupied by James Horne as sole tenant from 1829 to1836. Followed by Donald Horne from 1836 to 1862. Donald Horne was the sole tenant of Benalisky 1842 to 1856.

Both James and Donald Horne clearly effected the evictions, but I think the sale of land between Sinclair and the Horne’s must have allowed for the evictions to take place.

Whether the tenants left voluntarily or were evicted they have left evidence of their life in the Highlands. Views from Google Earth of this same area show how desolate it now is. Vast tracts of this once occupied land are now used as an exclusive hunting estate.


Emigrant ship disaster 1807


There is another story about the Rumsdale tenants. Back in May 2016 I blogged some stories about an emigrant ship from Scrabster that was wrecked off the coast of Newfoundland in 1807.  Some records say the ship was the Rambler of Leith and others the Lhough Mhore America. One record claims that one of the three survivors was Jean Gunn, daughter of Alex Gunn of Rumsdale a noted pious man who was singing the 46th psalm when the ship was going down. 

A letter from Mrs Gunn, a family relation, states “Many from Strathmore and Rumsdale could see the evictions coming.  150 from lands edging the Thurso River all the way down from Rumsdale took passage on the Lough More.  There were a few from Latheron too. The Lough More sailed from Thurso and was wrecked off New Foundland, there being only 13 survivors.  One of these was David Gunn who returned to Scotland and visited us in 1833.  I remember him well…”






Saturday, March 10, 2018

Dun Cows for a Kiss


AN OLD MAN’S NARRATIVE OF THE ULBSTER ESTATE EVICTIONS Part A



Northern Ensign 21 February 1884

Sir,-

"In one of his recent letters to the Ensign, Mr Logan said that neither Sir Tollemache Sinclair or any member of his family ever evicted any human being from the township of Rumsdale since the creation of the world. Now I will give Mr Logan the history of the township of Rumsdale, Dalganachan, and the Glutt, beginning with the period of 60 years before Mr Logan was born." 

The small ‘townships’ of Dalganachan, Rumsdale and the Glutt are all shown on the John Thomson's Atlas of Scotland 1832

Dun Cows for a Kiss


"When Ulbster married the noble and amiable Lady Janet Gordon, the daughter of the Earl of Sutherland, the young pair came home to the Castle of Thurso East, and Alexander Gunn, tenant of Dalganachan, went to see the laird of the castle. Gunn was a noble figure of a man in his Highland kilt. He was called in. He had no English but Ulbster and his lady could speak the Gaelic. Ulbster said to Gunn, “What do you think of my wife?” Gunn replied, “If she gives me a kiss, I will give her a pair of the best calves and cows that I have in Dalganachan.” The lady rose as quick as lightening and kissed Gunn; and the following week he came down with a pair of dun cows and calves, and presented them to her ladyship, who said to him, 

                  “As long as you live you will not be removed, nor your off-spring.”

A group of Highland cattle, black, red and dun coloured

Glens of Rumsdale


"Cromaild, or the glens of Rumsdale, at that time were a forest of natural wood, and William Gunn, tenant of Rumsdale, was a forester. The tenants of Harpsdale had an agreement, and claimed in their leases to get wood for their Highland couples and small wood for their houses, from the forest, and the forester, William Gunn supplied them."


Glutt Water, Dalganachan
View downstream from above a rocky outcrop towards Dalganachan where the Glutt Water is joined by the Rumsdale Water and changes name to River Thurso.

20 Sovereigns


"William More Macdonald, the head tenant of Rumsdale at that time, never went to see his cattle without 20 sovereigns in the purse of his kilt and a sword in his belt, and he never took a breakfast or a dinner without putting two odd spoons on the table for any person to come in." 

A Suffocated Bull


"The next head tenant was Roderick More Mac-Ulliam-Mac-Dohinil, and he was as strong as four men at that time. When his dun bull was suffocated in the snow in Lochleer, he went in his kilt and took the bull out of the water, twisted his four legs at the knee joint, separated then from the body without any instrument, and took half the bull home on his back to Rumsdale, a distance of four miles."

To be Continued:


My Comments:


This Letter to the Editor was published in the Northern Ensign on 21 February 1881 and signed by “One who was evicted and one who knows”. Although Alexander Gunn has not signed the letter, it has his hallmark all over it and I reckon it very probably was written by him. 

The letter is of particular interest to me, as my great great grandparents, Christina Sutherland and John McLeod, mentioned in earlier blogs, spent 41 years at Rumsdale after the evictions.

The lineage in the first paragraph has been a bit complicated to figure out and I stand to be corrected on the data I have used. Names change over time and, who succeeds who when it comes to peerage and titles, can be complex.

Lady Janet Gordon


So who was ‘the noble and amiable Lady Janet Gordon’? This is what I think!

Janet Gordon was a daughter of William Gordon, Lord Strathnaver, and Catherine Morrison, Lady Strathnaver. She was born about 1725 and died in 1795. Had Lady Janet's father, William, Lord Strathnaver, outlived his father, he would have become the 17th Duke of Sutherland.

Janet was also known as Lady Janet Sutherland and is referred to as such by her granddaughter Catherine Sinclair in her book Shetland and the Shetlanders:

‘My grandmother, Lady Janet Sutherland whose portrait is hung in Dunrobin, appears there in the character of a little smiling old fashioned infant, rather formal, with a cherry in her hand, looking very unlike the venerable character she afterwards became.’

Janet married Sir George Sinclair of Ulbster and was then also referred to as Lady Janet Sinclair. George died in 1776 leaving a son and three daughters. The son, born in Thurso castle in 1754, became the well-known Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster, politician, lawyer and agricultural reformer, who made the first eviction in the north of Scotland for sheep.

Lady Janet was held to be both knowledgeable and astute.

In the Memoirs of the Life and Works of Sir John Sinclair, he makes some interesting comments about his mother. He quotes in full her last letter written to him. Here are two small extracts:

 Lady Janet Sinclair to John Sinclair, Esq. dated 9 June 1783

‘I entreat you to observe economy and to be aware of impositions. Reside in Caithness as much as possible and do not trust too much on the management of others in conducting your affairs. You will find few to trust. Self interest with some, popularity with others. Keep short accounts with those you employ in every capacity. To be in debt is a most disagreeable situation. To contract debt is easy but how different to repay, it lessens one's importance, chagrins the temper and ruins a family.......

I don’t approve of setting large tacks to tacksmen. They often oppress the poor people under them.

Janet Sinclair.


There has long been a castle in Thurso. In the mid seventeenth century George the Earl of Caithness enlarged what was there in the way of a castle. But in 1872 Sir Tollemache Sinclair had that castle substantially rebuilt. Most of the seventeenth century castle was either demolished or incorporated into the new structure. The workmanship was poor and in 1952 much of that castle was demolished. The Thurso castle that is visible today has no trace of the original castle.

The gift to Lady Janet of a pair of dun cows and calves was a very fine gesture. I don’t know the history of Highland cows in Caithness but it’s likely that the majority of cows bred and traded at that time were either black or the familiar red. A dun is a brownish/grey colour. A dun line was likely highly prized and would have had the value of a stud line today. Lady Janet responded nobly with a promise of security of tenure. Pity her son John wasn’t witness to that promise.

The story about the suffocated bull is the stuff of legends. There are numerous stories of strong Highland men from days gone, but the tradition of being extremely strong is still alive and well in the popular Highland Games where very strong men compete with each other.