Dawe Pounces On Taylor

I have transcribed the first court report of the visit to the house of William Taylor by the Excise Officer Mr Dawe. It is such a classic story of the task of the Inland Revenue Officers to apprehend the illicit manufacture of whisky, and the efforts made by crofters, with the help of friends and neighbours, to evade them.

The actual trial report (next blog) throws a little more light on Taylor’s story.

IMPORTANT ILLICIT STILL SEIZURE

Stemster Hill. Now deserted and returning to bog

Loch Stemster

Another important seizure of an illicit still has been made in the Lybster district. On the morning of Thursday, the 19^th inst, Mr Dawe, Supervisor of Inland Revenue, left this place on a reconnoitring expedition, with the view of eliciting information as to the working of an illicit still which was known to be in the neighbourhood of the Loch of Stemster. For this purpose, and with the view of guarding against his operation causing suspicion in the neighbourhood, he first took a train to Bower, and from thence pursued a course across the moorlands, striking downwards in a southerly direction till he came to Chapel, where he left one of his officers. Having accomplished this journey he lodged for the night about twelve miles distant from the scene of next day’s operations. During Thursday, Mr Dawe was evidently observed by persons on the watch.

Mr Dawe struck out across the moors

On Friday accompanied by the Lybster officer, Mr Henderson, Mr Dawe struck out across the moors from Lybster to the Stemster Hill, between which and Rangag, is the suspected place, called Ballachyle about four miles from Achavannich to the east. It occupies a kind of gully and it is an isolated and sequestered spot, particularly congenial to such an occupation. Up to that time, however, Mr Dawe only knew the name of the party and neighbourhood but not the house. By a little manoeuvring, however he managed to call at the very dwelling. Here a little natural curiosity was manifested by the inmates which showed the officers that they had struck the proper trail. It is one thing to know where a thing may be found in a general way, and quite another to get it into possession. After going a short distance from the place, and returning again, a search was determined upon with the view of seeing if there were any illegal operations being carried on in the premises. These buildings consisted of two houses adjoining each other, lengthwise, of the ordinary construction. First the search of the living room of William Taylor, labourers and dyker, was begun but with no result. In the next room, leading out of the other, were two beds. Under these, on the floor, were found scattered a few grains of malt, which had been left conveniently handy for the benefit of the officers in their investigation, beside about half a dozen of stone jars, some of which had the smell of liquor. Mr Dawe then left the house for the purpose of rummaging the house of the sister, Mrs Taylor adjoining. In this house there was nothing found with the exception of an ordinary quart bottle or wort. 

Illicit still at the Colbost Museum

Investigation of the fowl house

An investigation was then made of a fowl house and another of the outhouses with no result. At the end of the second house – Mrs Taylors – there was a pendicle construction of a peculiar design, so that it would not be observed by any person coming in the ordinary direction, and which opened by means of a lock and key towards the hill side. The key having been obtained there was found a mash tun, what was evidently used for fermenting, and bags which contained grain, from the remaining grains contained in them. A very important portion of this house was a small piece of dead wall which evidently had been lately rebuilt up, and, on poking with their sticks, they found it to contain a properly built furnace site for the fire, with a hole for the still, and an arrangement by which the smoke would escape to the house vent.

Search the peat stack

The peat stack having been searched, and beyond finding some barrels which were empty, sunk in the ground, covered by a large Caithness flag and a divot, little else was got. It was not till after some ten hours searching that the still was got hold of in a large rectangular cistern which was constructed of Caithness stone, and placed in close proximity to the house. This copper still would hold from 30 to 40 gallons. A considerable number of half threats were used in order to get quit of the officers, one asking Mr Dawe if he knew what Samson was told, that the Philistines were upon him. All this would not do, with tact and determination Mr Dawe held to his purpose and completed his work.

A rough and dark night

Increasing the difficulty and danger of the enterprise it was a very rough and dark night. 

The still was obtained

When the still was obtained it was carried by the officers in the direction of the Stemster farm, occupied by Mr Waters, sheep farmer, who was roused up, and the demand made, in the Queen’s name, for a horse and conveyance. Mr Waters was, we believe, very reluctant to comply with the request to provide horse and cart for the officers; but at last did so. After a number of articles were placed on the conveyance they were driven on to Lybster, and from thence to Wick.

A fine of up to £800

We believe the trial will not take place from some time. A fine of £200 is the fine for malting; and £600 for the possession of a still. It certainly was exceedingly daring for two revenue officers to attempt the seizure and complete it in such a solitary place, without personal violence being used. We believe it is stated that Taylor maintains he has not done anything with the still for twelve months. This will all come out at the trial.

John O Grout Journal 19 Sept 1878

How is Whisky Made?

To help understand some of the terms in the story here is a brief explanation on how whisky is made.

Traditionally there are five stages to the process - malting, mashing, fermentation, distillation and maturation.

Step 1 - Malting

Barley contains starch and it is this starch which needs to be converted into soluble sugars to make alcohol. For this to occur, the barley must undergo germination and this first part of the process is called 'malting.

The barley is soaked for 2-3 days in warm water and then traditionally spread on the floor of a building called a malting house.

When the barley has started to shoot, the germination has to be stopped by drying it in a kiln. Traditionally peat is used to power the kiln and it is at this point where the type of peat used and length of drying in the peat smoke can influence the flavour of the final spirit. The barley is now called 'malt' and this is ground down in a mill, with any husks and other debris being removed.

Step 2 - Mashing

The ground down malt, which is called 'grist', is now added to warm water to begin the extraction of the soluble sugars. The water is normally from a pure, reliable, local source. The liquid combination of malt and water is called the 'mash'. It is put into a large vessel called a mash tun and stirred for several hours.

During this process, the sugars in the malt dissolve and these are drawn off through the bottom of the mash tun. The resulting liquid is called 'wort'.

Step 3 - Fermentation

The wort is cooled and passed into large tanks called washbacks. These are traditionally made of wood. Here the yeast is added and the fermentation begins. The yeast turns the sugars that are present into alcohol.

Step 4 - Distillation

In Scotland, the wash is traditionally distilled twice.

The stills are made from copper, which has been found to be the best material for extracting impurities from the spirit as it is being distilled and consist of a bowl shape at the bottom that rises up to the neck at the top.

The wash enters the larger wash still and is heated. The liquid vaporises and rises up the still until it reaches the neck, where it condenses.

Step 5 - Maturation

The spirit is put into oak casks and stored.

Source: http://www.whiskyforeveryone.com/whisky_basics/how_is_whisky_made.html

John O Grout Journal 19 Sept 1878

A Wedding at Halsary

A Wedding at Halsary

A wedding was announced to be held on December 28,1877. Banns were proclaimed according to the Forms of the Free Church of Scotland.

Young James Taylor, farm hand, of Stemster, was going to marry Catherine McLeod of the Rangag teashop. She had been on her own for a few years since her parents both died, but had stayed living in the Rangag house where her mother had run a grocery business. Tea became fashionable and popular so Catherine became a tea merchant. But James was young and handsome and she said “Aye” – actually, they both spoke Gaelic so maybe she said ‘tha’.

The wedding was to be held in the Halsary meeting house just up the Causewaymire road from Rangag, at Tacher. It was a big building with room for a crowd. Highland hospitality allowed that after a marriage the doors were to be opened to all, be they strangers or not.

The Halsary meeting house in 2011

Welcome Rev David Ferguson

David Ferguson the Free Church minister would have arrived on his horse and put it in the horse yards. David knew the McLeod family well enough as he was the minister for Achreny, Westerdale and Halsary – all places the McLeod family had attended church. David had conducted the marriages of Betsy McLeod and Willie Williamson in 1859, Jessie McLeod and William Burnett in 1863, Alexander McLeod and Jessie Ross in 1868. He was said to be “a man of genial disposition, upright and straight forward in word and deed. He had a strong and well-built frame, indispensable for his work, which extended over an area of many miles of hill and moor” Source: The Achreny Mission – Part 3 – After the Disruption.

The Horse Enclosure at Halsary

Witness William Tait worked for his uncle Benjamin Tait on one of the big Stemster farms

James Taylor was a herd boy in 1871 working for William Waters on a big farm at Stemster next door to where William Tait was working. They were probably boyhood mates.

All went well. The marriage was conducted. A crowd arrived (including a few strangers), and the party began. As was customary, whisky was provided for the guests.

The Taylor family, like many in the district were poor – so poor, in fact, that father William couldn’t even pay the rent for his small house. It was paid by the Parochial Board of Latheron (who granted small amounts of ‘Poor relief’ for paupers).

They might have been poor but William and Janet Taylor wanted a good party for their son and his bride. The only way to do that was to provide ‘home-made’ stuff.

Whisky was an important feature of social life and used as a welcome for guests. Like most Scots, Stemster locals had long had their own stills hidden in the glens and hollows. Problem was, home distilled whisky was illegal. And just who were those strangers at the party?

To be continued 

Note: Re Whisky see also the blog “Smuggling” posted November 30, 2014

Tinkers: Rambling Recollections of my School & School Days – Part A

Article IX written by Alexander Gunn was printed in the Northen Ensign on 13 January 1881 – Part A

Ewen MacPhee is about to make an interesting 

discovery amongst the Badbea heather !

Visitations

"How does it happen that Caithness is, and has been, pestered with the wandering tribes of tinkers that have been such a scourge to the community from time immemorial! Badbea had its regular visitations from these migrating tribes, and as there was a kiln in the place which was common to all, the tinkers made it their own for the time being. We young folk were very fond of getting a glimpse of tinker life; and being often on the outskirts of their camp, many a curious scene we witnessed."

Walter Geikie 1795 - 1837

Keg of whisky hidden in the heather

"One scene in particular outstripped all the rest. On one occasion, as a troop of these tinkers were making for Badbea, in crossing over the hills, they stumbled on a keg of whisky which some of the Badbea folk had concealed among the heather for fear of the gauger. The Macfees (for this was the branch of the tribe who happened to come on the scene at this time), gave expression to their feelings at the find in a loud and joyous hurrah, and in less time than it takes me to write this, the end of the keg was stove in, and the Highland whisky was dealt around the company in tin jugs, and gulped down with the utmost relish. This was an opportunity to get jolly which seldom happened, and which the company was not disposed to allow to pass unimproved. To think that Mr Macfee, etc, could drink himself mortal drunk on good Highland whisky, and that free gratis for nothing, was an event in Providence which had never before occurred, and a long life might terminate and the same chance never occur again. Under all these circumstances need we wonder that the opportunity was embraced, and the best and most made of it?"

Good Luck

"Well I am not quite sure if the same good luck came the way of parties who would consider it an insult to be put on the same level as the tinkers, but they might have used much the same liberty as the tinkers did; but, be that as it may, we were startled that afternoon by seeing the tribe making towards their habitation, the kiln, all reeling and staggering in the most reckless manner, and those who were able to stagger along at all, were doing their best in dragging along others who were utterly helpless, and whom they laid down on the grass in front of the kiln. The balance of the whisky which was not consumed on the spot, was conveyed in pitcherfulls to the kiln, and the spree was there renewed till there was scarcely one amongst them, male or female, who was able to move out of the spot."

"Those who were not totally disabled lighted a fire, and began to cook the supper, which was made in a large tin (full made tins being what were used for pots) of thick gruel or “brochan.” One of these cooks or waiters came out to a female who lay dead drunk on the grass, with a large tin-dealer full of the gruel, and wanted the helpless woman to partake of it, but she was utterly regardless of her entreaties, which roused the spirit of the generous donor to such a degree, that she splashed the whole contents of the divider in the face of the poor unconscious woman, after which she re-entered the kiln and joined in the spree, and I can assure you that the tribe had a night of carousal, such as they never had before, and that we young folks were witnesses to scenes anything but edifying, and such as we would never wish to witness again."

I don’t know where these Tinkers lived when they were not travelling but there is a fascinating cave dwelling at Forse not far from Badbea. These pictures were posted by Jacktar on the Caithness forum. There was another occupied cave at Wick.

http://forum.caithness.org/showthread.php?110224-Tinkers-Cave-Caithness

My Comments:

I will admit to be struggling a bit to comment on this article for several reasons. 

First, I really have no first-hand knowledge of the history of the clans or groups of people Alexander Gunn refers to as Tinkers. Even though he published his letter in 1881 the time this incident occurred must have been between 1830 and 1840. From the little research I have done there are several highly rated books that celebrate the history and lives of Travelling People in the 20th century. The Yellow on the Broom by Betsy Whyte published by Birlinn has good reviews. I haven’t yet found anything available as an e-book so am trying to locate something from another source to correct my ignorance in this area.  

Second, this whole article shows deep disdain for the people being written about, which I find deplorable. In some ways it seems to me not much different to the long past Scottish attitude that saw slavery acceptable. But as Scotland now recognises it was involved in the horrors of the slave trade I wonder if there is a similar awareness of their guilty past in attitudes to Tinkers or Travellers. 

So just a few observations from me about this story.

• I can’t help smiling at the stroke of luck the Macphees had. In fact I love it. Of course they were going to party all night. Who wouldn’t? And Alexander Gunn hints that they could hardly be blamed for making the most of the opportunity. But he is still disparaging.

Travellers beside their camp fire, c1930s 

Am Baile facebook

Photograph courtesy of Highland Folk Museum

• There is a bit of a double standard going on with the Badbea folk who distilled and hid the whisky  - needing the revenue from it to supplement their meagre incomes – but who probably would not have judged anyone who paid for and drank the stuff at an Inn even if the resulting behaviour was the same.   

Travellers setting up camp, c1930s 

Am Baile facebook

Photograph courtesy of the Highland Folk Museum

• It seems peculiar that the Badbea villagers, who had been treated so badly by their landowners and found themselves without a roof over their heads were not a bit more accommodating to another group of people, who also spoke Gaelic, had nowhere to live and, as well, were struggling for survival. The Tinkers were allowed to use the common kiln at Badbea – which at times would have been warm and dry – but the villagers held a morally superior attitude. 

Industries at Ousdale. Article VII, 06/11/1879 - Rambling Recollections of Berriedale Badbea and Neighbourhood – Part A

Article VII written by Alexander Gunn aka A Native of Badbea was printed in the Northern Ensign on 6 November 1879. Part A

Martial Enthusiasm

One is at a loss to account for the martial spirit which existed in the breasts of these simple peace-loving people, of which we have been treating, removed as they were from the seat of any military centre, and to whom the site of a red coat was a seven year wonder, unless a recruiting escort for Wick or Thurso were on their way south: yet there seemed to have been a spark of military enthusiasm smouldering in their breasts, which burst out into flame from time to time, and resulted in their leaving friends and home, to shoulder the musket, and submit to military life. As we have seen some of them became a credit to themselves and an honour to their country.

Industries at Ousdale

Ousdale 1934. The shepherd's old house is left rear.

Ousdale had two public institutions, a mill and a distillery. The mill was situated on the burn that divides Ousdale into two parts, and on the left hand side of the road which leads from the shepherd’s old house, crossing over close to the big house on the west side of the first burn, to the east of the shepherd’s old house, and a little below the old road. It was the property of, or was rented by, a Mr Sutherland, who lived in the big house at Ousdale. The distillery was defunct long before our day, but the site we have often seen.

Ousdale Burn

Broaching the Admiral

Although this scene is not Auchencraig the 

setting would have been similar

The whisky used to be sent to the towns situated along the Moray Firth. It was shipped at Auchencraig on the formidable boats used in those days for the herring fishing. Sutherland was in the habit of accompanying them as supercargo. He was very close-fisted in his way, and would never offer the crew a glass of his Highland whisky, should they perish with cold. On one occasion, while on a voyage to some of the ports of the Moray Firth, the crew were complaining much of the cold, the morning being hard and frosty. Sutherland also complained of the cold, when it was proposed to him that he should go forward to the bows of the boats, where he would be sheltered by the sail. This he at once agreed to, and as soon as he seated himself down there, some member of the crew commenced operations in “broaching the admiral,” or in other words, helping themselves to a wee drop of the good man’s whisky, extracting from a cask by a gimlet and quill, the results being that their blood was kept in circulation, and their spirits kept up.

Between the distillery and the curing at Auchencraig there was a considerable stir in these days, and the two industries were the means of circulating a considerable sum of money in the district. How changed things are now! These places, which at the time referred to, were all stir and life from one year’s end to another, are now surrounded with the stillness of death. The only sounds to be heard now are the bark of the shepherd’s dog, the bleating of sheep, or the “birl” of the sportsman’s whistle. 

Scottish Whisky

Allan Royhouse 1977 makes the following comment:

It already has been said that there was a thriving - and legal at the time - whisky distillery at Ausdale in the time of William Campbell [tacksman]. When this ceased to produce  malt whisky is not known, but a fair guess might be that the closure of the facility coincided with the introduction of legislation and licensing c. 1780. This may have halted the legitimate distillation of whisky, but the knowledge and 'know how' of production was well known to the people who continued to produce the 'mercy' from small private stills - some for their own use, some for various outlets whereby scarce money might be had in exchange. This source of wealth, and those who produced the whisky, soon came under the scrutiny of the landed proprietors, and it was not long before legislature came into being whereby all manner of difficulties were put in the way of producing a ‘browst.’

A Good Neighbour - Part A

David Badbea Sutherland - Part A

David Badbea Sutherland is a 'braw' man to pull up from the Grey Hen's Well. He was described by Alexander Gunn as 'Our Good Neighbour.' I'll tell why.

David Sutherland was born in Badbea in 1770 and lived there all his life. He probably could have left at some stage but he didn't. His father was William and his grandfather David Sutherland of Ousdale. His mother was Christian Finlayson of Langwell.

Little is known of the early life of David but the stories told of him in later life show that he learned many skills growing up in Badbea. Keeping in mind that Badbea was a hostile place, extremely cold in winter, with salt laden winds and frequent fierce storms hammering the settlement a lot of the year, David's skills and knowledge of this environment must have made the difference between eking out an existence and insufferable hardship for the families cleared to Badbea.

Cooper

Census Badbea 1851

Barrels at Timespan, Helmsdale

The census of 1851 tells us that David was a cooper, meaning he was a maker and repairer of wooden barrels. The barrels were used in the fishing industry.

Although the herring industry in the North of Scotland grew substantially in the mid-nineteenth century, the 1818 engraving of 'Castle Berrydale' by William Daniell shows fishing activity established in Berriedale then.

The Berriedale scene is of fishing boats pulled up on the shore, nets spread to dry, lasses gutting fish and barrels made by coopers ready to pack the catch. Berriedale was only a four mile walk from Badbea so it is likely that David Sutherland worked in the Berriedale fishing industry as a cooper, passing the Grey Hen's Well every day on his way to work. From Berriedale he would have undoubtedly learned early to help catch fish for his family, thus gaining important local knowledge of the sea and its dangerous currents. 

Here is a 21st century view of this inlet and the remains of the ancient 'Castle of Berrydale'  from the old Berriedale Cemetery.

Tee Names

It was common practice in Caithness in those time to attribute to some people Tee-names or community nick-names. This was the case with several Badbea personalities whose given names were in widespread use. David Sutherland was thus known as David Badbea Sutherland.

David's House

About the time David's father William married for a second time and there was a new young family in that household, David, about 30 years old, built himself a house very near his father's house. David's house was an improvement on older Badbea houses. It was the largest house in the hamlet, had two chimneys and was the only house at that time that had a level foundation. David was a home maker and an entrepreneur!

He was also said to be the builder and handy-man for the settlement. Despite having a new house David never married. The new house showed his commitment to staying in this difficult place and over time it was well used. 

 Could these be the ruins of David Badbea Sutherland's house

These ruins are very near the centre of the old community on flat land. Clearly there is also a fireplace at the end of the house. 

About ten years after David built his house, his father William and step-mother Katherine both died. David's half brothers and sisters were left orphaned. David and his cousin John Badbea Sutherland (another Tee name) shared the responsibility of caring for these children. It seems probable that Christina lived with David until she married in 1822 and left Badbea. Christina and David remained especially close to each other right until David died. As well David was held in remarkably high esteem by his brother Alexander in New Zealand. David kept working in the fishing industry and supporting his orphaned brothers and sisters. 

The 1841 census shows a whole family living with David. The 65 year old bachelor has a Gunn family with 5 young children plus a Female Servant living with him in his house. 

Whisky

There was a long history of Highlanders distilling whisky at home or in nearby bothies or caves. In the eighteenth century the government began to tax whisky, thus driving the distillers underground. The illicit distilling of whisky was known as smuggling and was standard practice for most Highland communities, Badbea included, with no moral stigma attached. The tax was difficult to enforce in remote districts. Battles between smugglers and the gaugers or excise officers were regular and ongoing. 

Whenever the excise men stopped at the Berriedale Inn on their way round the district a signalling system from the owner of the Inn and the Badbea people went into action.

Highland Whisky Still by R R McIan

At Badbea stills were cleverly hid in the heather clad hills or in a cave at the bottom of the cliffs. Distilling whisky was an important way money could be raised. 

Alexander Gunn reports on the outcome of a visit by the excise officers to Badbea.

'Should there be found any tubs or barrrels in the bothy, they would be hurled over the cliffs down the face of the rock and would reach the shore in staves. With the excise out of sight the staves lying scattered on the shore would be gathered up and handed to David Sutherland, better known as 'David Badbea' who combined the offices of joiner and cooper, and in twenty-four hours they were all in their former shape and ready for use..' 

The News

David Badbea was able to read and write and was knowledgeable with figures. He read English, surprising when Gaelic was used in much of the Highlands. There was no school close to Badbea when he was young and it was not common for everyone to read well. How he learned to read is anyone's guess but one commentator has a theory that Christian Finlayson, David's mother, had a brother who was a school teacher in Dunbeath. Perhaps Christian could also read and taught her eldest son, or perhaps David's uncle the school master taught him.

Source: Roydhouse unpublished. 

Alexander Gunn who was a lad in Badbea has this to say:

News travelled very slowly in those days, and was but very imperfect when it did come to hand. There was not much startling news came our length, and I must say that a newspaper was not the most welcome visitor to us. If my father got hold of a paper, our good neighbour, David Sutherland got word of it, and whatever business might be on hand, and however important or pressing, it got leave to stand, and David came to our fireside, when the whole contents of the paper were gone into, and every word read, and read aloud, with the greatest of interest. If David got a paper he acted in like manner. We could not imagine how the old folks felt such an interest in reading the papers. As for us, it was the greatest punishment that could be inflicted upon us, as we dare not move from our seats, or speak a word louder than a whisper. Should we forget ourselves, and speak a loud word we did not miss our punishment. We could sit a live long winter night and listen to stories about fairies and ghosts till our hair would stand on end, but we had no taste for politics, or general news, and we could not conceive how anybody else could have cravings that way.

Newspapers were a rarity in the far North. The 'Northern Star' and the 'John O Groat Journal' came into existence at this time I speak of. Both were diminutive sheets, perhaps about 12" X 10", Their price was at the time 3d., and the postage would be as much as the cost of the paper.

Source: Northern Ensign 17 Nov 1881

A Cooper at work