Some Reminiscences of Helmsdale

Some Reminiscences of Helmsdale

Written by Alexander Gunn aka A Native of Badbea.

Published in the Northern Ensign on 22 July 1890. Part A

To The Editor of the Northern Ensign

Helmsdale 2008

Sir. -Your readers and the natives of Helmsdale have been treated to a sketch of the present state of the place. I propose with your permission and that of your readers, to give a sketch of what the place was like in my young days, when I believe it was in a more flourishing condition than it is at present.

Distillery and Meal Mill

The time was in my recollection when the distillery was in full swing, carried on by William and Alexander Simpson, who were extensive fishcurers as well. They also carried on farming at the Boghals. There was a meal mill in full operation at Navidale, the miller being Robert Gunn, ‘Au Rean.’ 

Limekiln

The limekiln which stood to the west of the distillery was used in burning lime for a supply to those building houses in Helmsdale and the neighbourhood. About this time the pier was extended to its present dimensions and the wall facing the river and the outside of the basin was built.

Old Telford Bridge and curing yard Now Timespan c1910s

Fishcuring

Fishcuring was carried on most extensively on both sides of the river. On the north side the curers were Jarvise, John MacLeod, Hampton, William and Alexander Simpson, Kenneth Sutherland, Donald Mackenzie, D. Cooper, Peter Cuthbert, ‘Petrie,’ Robert Fraser, Andrew Mackay, and Methven. On the south side, below the castle, later on, were Donald Ross, John Mackay, ‘Heylum,’ Alexander Bruce, Angus Proucle and Alex Macleod. These were, as far as I remember, the curers. There would be fully 200 boats fishing in Helmsdale about this time.

Fishing Boats

I have seen the river from the bridge to the end of the pier crammed with boats and ships, so that one could walk from end to end of the harbour over boats. Thousands of pounds were circulated in the place during the fishing season, and a large number of coopers were employed during the rest of the year.

Helmsdale Harbour c1880

My Comments:

The village of Helmsdale is a few miles south of Badbea on the east coast of Sutherland where the Helmsdale River flows into the North Sea. The new Helmsdale village was planned on a grid pattern by the Sutherland Estates in 1814 at the time crofters were being cleared. The intention was that crofters could make a living fishing herring. There were fish in abundance but it was dangerous work for men who initially had few of the skills to man fishing boats and bring in herrings in the North Sea. The Helmsdale harbour was built in 1818 and extended in 1823 and again in 1892. It was one of the largest herring fleets in Europe.

The old distillery is shown on the map as a long building over looking the sea to the east of the village. The distillery was originally run by A & D Simpson between 1825 and 1831 and then by Alexander Simpson & Co between 1831 and 1837 and finally by James Christie and Co. Christie went bankrupt and the distillery was closed and dismantled. A modern house is now on the site of the old distillery.

House called 'Lobster Pot' on site of old distillery

The meal mill at Navidale was somewhere near the ruins visible in this Google Earth picture.

I can’t find any trace of the lime kiln but see Geograph picture for what they look like. Lime kilns were just a large furnace with an opening at the top. Chunks of limestone from a quarry would be layered in the kiln with coal or peat and then set alight. The fire would burn slowly for a day or two. When it was cool the quicklime that had accumulated at the base would be raked out. It was a very energy intensive process.  Limewash or white wash was used extensively on house walls and in cellars to improve the light.

To be continued...

The Find of a Cannon Ball at Badbea Shore

Written by Alexander Gunn and published in the Northern Ensign on 27 May 1890

To the Editor of the Northern Ensign,

'SIR – I observed a paragraph in your last week’s issue that a cannon ball had been picked up on the shore at Badbea and expressing wonder how it came to be there. I am not sure I am able to solve the mystery, but it occurred to me that it might have found its way there in this way.'

Ceann Ousdale. The track up to Auchencraig was between the two hills.

'In the good old times when Auchencraig was inhabited by a happy and comfortable people, there was a good deal of smuggling indulged in, and on one occasion when several of the inhabitants had a “browst” on hand, the revenue cutter the Atlanta, put in all appearance on the coast -a very unwelcome visitor at any time, but more especially in the circumstances such as I refer to. When opposite the port of Auchencraig - for it was a port of considerable importance in those days, as no less than thirteen boats went out from that place every night during the herring fishing season, and there were thousands of crans cured there every year -  the crew of the cutter launched and manned their boats and made for the shore.' 

Scrabster harbour 1891

'Their movements were seen from Auchencraig by watchers on the outlook when it was determined that the boat should be prevented from landing for a time at least, till all the stuff should be got into hiding. The plan was this - the male portion of the inhabitants were do their utmost to put the stuff into hiding, and the females were to arrange themselves on braehead and roll large boulders down the steep brae above the shore making it certain death to any one who would venture to land. In this way the boat was prevented from landing. When the captain saw what was going on, he sailed as close inshore as he could with safety, and opened fire on the women, when the balls like hail came showering about them.' 

A jammed cannon ball

This old cannon barrel on Wiveton Green was scrapped because the cannon ball jammed at the end of the barrel when it was fired and the pressure of the charge blew a hole through the side of the barrel.

'Fortunately, no one was hurt, but the boat was not permitted to land till everything was considered safe. Then the cutter's men climbed up the steep rocks in a great hurry and fury and caught every woman they saw and examined their hands to see if they were soiled, expecting in this way to discover those who were engaged in the stone battle. The men kept out of sight all this time. The cutter-men threatened to take some of the women away with them, but did not put the threat into execution, which was as well  as the men were prepared to rescue the women had there been an attempt made to carry them off.  My idea is that perhaps the Atlanta might fire a few shots in passing at Badbea with a view of showing the Badbea folks what they might expect should they at any time attempt a line of defence similar to that adopted by the Auchencraig folks, and in this way a ball would likely fall on the shore at Badbea. This may not account for the finding of the ball, but it is the most likely theory I can suggest. Should it be accounted for in any other way, I shall he glad to hear it.'

I am, &c., ALEXANDER GUNN

Glasgow, 16th May, 1890

My Comments:

A similar recollection by Gunn of the same event was blogged on February 5, 2015.

The date of this incident is not given but since Auchencraig was ‘cleared’ in 1830 and the report below by MacCulloch was published in 1824 it must have occurred well before that date.

 I don't know what the cannons on the Atalanta were like but this one was from the Napolean War 1815 so perhaps not far removed from the time of the above incident. Source: Inniskillings Regimental Museum

As has been noted before ‘smuggling’ or making whisky locally was a widespread practice in the Highlands and was an important source of income. Squirmishes were common. The surveillance was about tax. Taxmen or excise officers were appointed to hunt out small hidden stills but with the hundreds of miles of rugged coastline and countless small caves and caverns in which whisky was both distilled and transported from, the revenue cutter Atalanta operated from sea. That they could fire cannon balls, which would inflict a most hideous death, at Highland crofters seems astounding. But clearly the Auchencraig inhabitants were prepared to roll deadly stones down the brae at the cutter’s men to protect their livelihood. 

Another eye witness of Auchencraig appears in MacCulloch’s ‘Letters to Sir Walter Scott,’ published in 1824:

‘I had occasion to land with a boat under the magnificent cliffs near the Ord (of Caithness), where a party of men, women and children were employed on the herrings, while the rocks were strewn with barrels and the shore with boats, and horse were seen scrambling up and down a narrow track in the cliffs, the sight of which made my head giddy. Such are the ports which nature has bestowed upon a coast to which the herrings have though fit lately to retire from the magnificent bays and lochs of the west; hoping perhaps they would not be so easily caught, salted, barreled off to feed negroes.’

‘The herring cleaners received us in a menacing attitude, and with shouts of defiance and offence. We knew very well they were wild Sutherlanders. It is not uncommon to find that one division of the present race of Highlanders has as little respect for its neighbours as the most prejudiced enemy can have for the while tribe, though they are all confounded under a common term.

 ‘The cause of the impending war was not at first apparent; but the sight of a vessel in the offing with the Union Jack at her gaff (the cutter Atalanta) suggested to us that we were supposed to belong to it, and that we had fallen in with a race of smugglers. It was too dangerous to expostulate or explain under a shower of stones; we therefore hauled off and left the field to the ‘enemy.’

Sheep and Deer v. People in Berriedale Part B

Written by Alexander Gunn and published in the Northern Ensign on 13 April 1887 – Part B

To the Editor of the Northern Ensign 31st March, 1887

Bridge over Langwell Water with uninhabited glens

“Is it to be wondered that there is a re-action, and that the people are beginning to be alive to their own interests, and to assert their rights, and despise the men who lorded it over them with such cruel oppression? Thanks to the Crofter Commission and the Crofter Act, with all its defects, together with the extension of the franchise, Jack is now as good as his master, and I do not share the despondent feeling of your correspondent, who places the re-occupation of his native straths and glens at such a distance. On the contrary, I believe that ere another generation passes away, most of these fertile straths and glens will be inhabited by a happy and industrious people.”

Langwell Strath near Turnal in the eviction list

“We hear a great deal about the hardships and the oppression under which the poor crofters of the Western Highlands are groaning, and they no doubt have suffered and are suffering much, but I affirm that we have no record of anything like the tyranny, oppression, and desolation that the unfortunate people of Berriedale have had to endure. We hear of arrears of rent in connection with the evictions in other places, but in the case of the crofters of Berriedale, they did not owe a single sixpence to their laird the day they were turned out of their comfortable homes.”

Eventually, the sheep venture at Wag was abandoned. But no re-occupation by crofters here.

“I understand that a petition has been presented to the present noble proprietor of Berriedale, pleading for more land. It is to be earnestly hoped that such a reasonable request will not be met by a refusal.”

Carnoustie now. No small holdings here.

“I was delighted to observe the other week in passing through part of the Panmure estate, between Carnoustie and Broughty Ferry, a row of neat cottages in course of erection, to be inhabited by small farmers at the town, the noble proprietor (Lord Dalhousie) having broken down a large farm and let it in small holdings. It is to be hoped that other proprietor will follow this example, and in this way form a bond of union between landlord and tenant, which is so desirable, and which would be so much to the benefit of both.”

ALEX. GUNN.

Glasgow, 31^st March, 1887

My Comments:

While the Berriedale tenants had no written legal tenure they had obviously believed that paying their rent (not owing a sixpence) would at least stand for some sort of security. No such luck. In Langwell as in many other districts such as the Western Isles the landlords were so fixated on clearing the tenants that whether rent was owing or not they found a way to evict and often with unspeakable cruelty.

Source: Welbeck/Langwell estate website

Unfortunately neither the Crofter Commission and the Crofter Act, nor the petition presented to His Grace the Duke of Portland for more land resulted in the re-occupation of a happy and industrious people that Gunn longingly anticipated. The current website for the Braemore and Langwell estates informs us that the deer forest which was purchased by the Duke of Portland in 1857, and has remained in the family since that date, is 52,000 acres and employs 4 staff!

Gamekeeper's road on Langwell

The Panmure estate, between Carnoustie and Broughty Ferry, that Alexander Gunn was feeling hopeful about never delivered for small farmers either. In fact Gunn would be horrified if he knew what happened to Panmure House. 

An old postcard showing Panmure House which was rebuilt in the 19th century. It was thought to be one of the finest baronial houses in Scotland, but following World War II it fell into disrepair and the money could not be found to repair and maintain it.  This beautiful building was blown up in December 1955. 

Sheep and Deer v. People in Berriedale Part A

To the Editor of the Northern Ensign 31st March, 1887

Written by Alexander Gunn and published in the Northern Ensign on 13 April 1887 – Part A

Note: This Letter to the Editor of the Northern Ensign gives the same data as a previous letter dated 27 March 1884. I blogged that letter in November 2013. Gunn spent a lifetime keeping the injustices of the evictions before the public, always backed up by meticulous evidence. So at the risk of being repetitive I will publish this 1887 version of the same data over two blogs. If it's good enough for him, it's good enough for me!

“The Injustice so palpable! The inhumanity so great” from Real Scottish Grievances by Donald Ross

Sir; - 

"Your correspondent “Sans Souci” in his interesting letter in your columns recently, would be none the worse of some little information about the state of matters in Berriedale in olden times. Sir John Sinclair is credited with being the author of all this desolation so graphically described by your correspondent. This is not the case, though, he was the originator of the clearances. He depopulated the two Straths of Berriedale, except what was done by James Horne who succeeded Sir John – not Donald Horne, as stated by your correspondent, though Donald may be said to have given the finishing touch to the desolating work on the estate. 

Previous to these clearances, there was a thriving herring fishing carried on at both Newport and at Auchnacraig. In the latter place I remember thirteen boats being engaged at the herring fishing and giving employment to a large number of the inhabitants of Auchnacraig and Badbea, and circulating a large amount of money in the district. I cannot speak as to the number of boats that fished in Newport, but there, too, a considerable number of the inhabitants got remunerative employment, and the money circulated in the district must have been a very great boon to the poor people."

"In the report of the Royal Commission on the crofters, it was stated that deer forests were the means of doing so much good in the way of finding employment for the people, and circulating as much money as if these districts were under cultivation. This statement is not borne out by facts, as any one acquainted with the state of matters before and after the clearances can testify. But for the benefit of your correspondent I will give him the number of families evicted on the Berriedale estate by Sir John Sinclair and his successors:"

A REAL “SCOTTISH GRIEVANCE.”

Duncan – “Oh but my mother is frail, and can’t be sent out of the country in that ship; will you not let Flora and her ---

Factor - [sternly] “No no lad – move on with the old woman; she will not be here in the way of his Lordship’s sheep and deer.”

Illustration from Real Scottish Grievances by Donald Ross. 

It refers to Lord Macdonald’s evictions at Boreraig on Skye. Mitchel Library Glasgow.  

See Electric Scotland for the terrible story of what happened to 96 year old Flora http://www.electricscotland.com/history/clearances/29.htm

 "In Berriedale, namely from the Millery Strath - Glutt, one tenant; Eskvin, one; Eshmacalmag, one;  Haborgue, one;  Eshnabing, one;  Upper Millery, one; Lower Millery, one;  Ardachigh, one; Toreshey, one; Duin, three; Taigh-an-Duin, one; Dalgheamich, two; Knock Feune, one; Ellaw-an-Duinag, one; Upper Borgue, two; Remalone, one; - in all 20."

 Wag More,  Old pre-clearances sheiling site

"In the Langwell Strath there were evicted from the Inver, five; Knocktarinrectan, one,  Elanloisg, one; Capernach, one; Taigh-an-Asary, one; Ruharigy, one; Tiornal, one; (held by George Gunn who had seven sons, all of whom were upwards of six feet, and having no equals in the country – some of them still alive); Taighnault, one; Bardnachie, one; Struan, one; Bualnohaoden, one; Garvary, one;  Breainheaglash, one;  Auldnaheath, one; Wag More, one; Uag Bhaig, (or Wag Baig), one; Badaskary, two;  Borgue of Langwell, one (where my great-grandfather lived during the proprietorship of Sutherland of Langwell); Corrag, one; Bualtarach, one – in all 25."

Uag Bhaig, or Wag Baig on Langwell water. My great great grandfather John McLeod worked here as a shepherd for James Horne before he was sent to work at Rumsdale

"In the Ousdale district, there were evicted from the township of Ousdale nine families; Borgue of Ousdale, two; Struie, eight; Clashvuick, three – in all 22. These were all evicted by Sir John Sinclair – a total of 67 families, all in comfortable circumstances. But the evil did not stop here, for the Hornes – first James and then Donald – following Sir John’s example, evicted from the cairn, four families, from Rinsary, six; Badbea, seven; Auchnacraig, thirteen – in all 30 – or a grand total from the estate of Berriedale of 97 families to make room for sheep and deer. Thus a population of close upon 500 were set adrift to gratify the whims of a trio of landlords."

To Be Continued.. 

My Comments:

The mention of George Gunn’s seven tall strapping sons was not just bragging but also was about the long-held custom that such superbly strong, fit men could be brought in as Highland soldiers to defend their own people or Imperial Britain – as they had done at the Napoleonic wars for example. In the past a family like that would have been worth some sort of respect, or merit from the Laird. But seven sons no longer saved them.

The Trump of the Archangel

AN OLD MAN’S NARRATIVE OF THE ULBSTER ESTATE EVICTIONS Part C

To the Editor of the Northern Ensign

Sir,-

"Mr James Waters statements regarding the evictions and vast clearances, with the names of ministers, and about four mills in good working order, and the church converted into a sporting house and a kennel for dogs – all this is strictly true."

Extract from Gloomy Memories in the Highlands of Scotland 

by Donald MacLeod. 

The kennel for dogs in Mr Sage’s study room was Strathnaver

"Will Mr Logan inform me who was the gentleman who made the first eviction in the north of Scotland for a sheep range and imported merino sheep to stock the cleared ground!" 

Sir John Sinclair (again!)

"I am not speaking from hearsay, but what I saw myself, and the persons whose names I give, all heads of families I well remember. I do not include the old names I gave you of the township of Rumsdale."

"There are three large cemeteries in this clearance, with beautiful tombstones, some of polished granite, and many a rich slab of marble; and the inscriptions bear witness to the wealth and generosity and piety of the people of that locality in past times."

Dalnawillan Cemetery

Dirlot Cemetery

Achreny Cemetery

"These rich cemeteries, indicate the love the living had for the dead in erecting over them costly and interesting monuments. In these beautiful cemeteries there are none to be buried now. All the beautiful straths there are now depopulated, and the graves will get rest until the great day when the trump of the archangel shall sound."

 – I am, etc.

One who was evicted and One who knows

Northern Ensign 21 Feb 1884

My Comments:

I haven’t got a copy of the statements by Mr James Waters but think he had read some of the reports of Donald MacLeod.

Donald MacLeod was born in Rosall, Strathnaver near the end of the eighteenth century. He witnessed the horrors of the Sutherland clearances and eventually went to Edinburgh and wrote very courageously of what he had seen. His letters were published in the Edinburgh Weekly Chronicle and other papers. Much later his letters were republished in revised form to counter the views in a publication by Harriet Beecher Stowe’s Sunny Memories.

Tombstone in Achreny Cemetery. 
George McLeod Dalnaha Died 16 March 1848 
and others

Re the three cemeteries in the locality of Rumsdale I have selected what seems to me to be the cemeteries referred to. Some time back I took photos in the old Dalnawillan and Achreny (also known as Acharynie) cemeteries which certainly had very fine tombstones erected long ago. Climbing over the wall into Achreny was a bit disconcerting from a safety point of view with the foot stones becoming almost dislodged now. I haven’t visited Dirlot but it can be seen to have also had very elegant and substantial tombstones put in there.

Achreny from the road.

The beautiful straths are certainly depopulated now as the Google Earth views show.