Evictions on the Estate of Langwell Part C

EVICTIONS ON THE ESTATE OF LANGWELL FROM 1830-31 TO 1855

(To the Editor of the Dundee and Perth Saturday Post) Part C

Sir John Sinclair

"Sir John Sinclair, Bart, of Ulster, who gained European fame as an agriculturalist, was, strange to say, the originator of the deeds described above, and was succeeded in the estate of Langwell by James Horne, Esq. Whatever Sir John’s faults may have been, those under him enjoyed a considerable degree of comfort and prosperity. Herring and white fishing were carried on and encouraged by him in various creeks on the estate." 

Sir John Sinclair statue in Thurso dated to 1835 

Source: Canmore SC0117055

Donald Horne Turned Them Out

"But when the present man, D Horne, succeeded him in 1830, a very different line of conduct was pursued. His first act was to turn out two thriving villages on his estate, containing twelve families each, and who paid a rental of from £7 to £10, and possessed on an average ten head of cattle. One of these villages, Auchencraig, had a creek for fishing connected with it, where I have seen 14 boats engaged for seven weeks in the season at the herring fishing and landed and cured thousands of barrels of herring, and who carried on a considerable trade with the Moray Firth for the various commodities used in the herring trade. There were hundreds of pounds spent from time to time on the port for curing and harbour accommodation." 

Gutting Herring at Wick late 19th early 20th C 

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"Alas, where is it today? Anyone who remembered its ancient glory, visiting it now, could not fail to see the contrast. The crews of these boats were composed of the inhabitants of Auchencraig and Badbea, a village a mile to the east of Auchencraig, of which more afterwards. Kinsary, the other village treated in the same way as Auchencraig was situated on the north side of eastern Berriedale, which, after joining the western stream, empties itself into the ocean below the village of that name, the inhabitants of which engaged in the herring fishing with their neighbours at Newport, a little to the east of the river, and enjoyed equal prosperity with Auchencraig."

Looking from Ousdale up to the remains of some Auchencraig buildings and the start of the stone wall from where it runs a distance of just under 5 miles to below Langwell House.

Driven to the Four Winds

"The inhabitants of the villages were driven to the four winds of heaven, and their once comfortable habitations were demolished and used in building a five feet stone dyke around the place, which was of course converted to a sheep walk. A favoured few got patches of land at Newport and Badrinsary – waste pieces of bogs and quagmire, fit for nothing. Those at Newport got neat and comfortable houses built for them, a few hundred yards above the public road, and travellers passing by would set Mr Horne down as a model of a landlord, not knowing that the people had to pay a yearly instalment, over and above their rents, for the building of their houses."

"The district being depopulated, the fishing was discontinued, and those poor people were obliged to work for their human laird at the rate of 1s per day for full grown men, women and boys from 4d to 6d per day, and out of this pittance to support themselves and families, and pay their rents, for their crofts scarcely yielded anything. But those set down at Badrinsary were out of sight of the traveller and got leave to build themselves houses to suit themselves and right glad they were for it, as they reckoned their neighbours at Newport paid dearly for their whistle."

There are still several old buildings at Newport being used for farm or storage purposes and now with corrugated iron roofs. I don’t know if these buildings are the same as referred to by Alexander Gunn but I think it is likely they are.
A Native of Badbea To Be continued

My Comments:

The closing down of the seasonal fishing business at Auchencraig (aka Achnacraig) by Donald Horne seems hard to fathom. The fishing trade was financed and operated by independent operators. While the fishing provided desperately needed income for the poverty-stricken crofters it would not have necessarily added to the Laird of Langwell’s income – except to guarantee the rents the crofters owed him. Sir John Sinclair and both James and Donald Horne were sure that sheep farming would bring in untold wealth to them so pursued sheep no matter what. In the long run both the fishing and the sheep farming would fail. But the immediate consequences of closing down the Auchnacraig fishery to the Auchencraig and Badbea crofters were very severe and cut off a lifeline to survival. Many were evicted and left Scotland, while some moved to nearby miserable places, while yet others headed to Wick where the herring trade was still flourishing.

A good read, graphically describing the herring trade and the dangers at sea, is Neil Gunn’s 1941 novel Silver Darlings. 

Evictions on the Estate of Langwell Part B

(Letter above referred to) See previous blog.

Just behind Langwell House

EVICTIONS ON THE ESTATE OF LANGWELL FROM 1830-31 TO 1855

(To the Editor of the Dundee and Perth Saturday Post)

SIR, - There are men in this world of ours, whatever their conduct may be, who are never brought to task for their actions; and from the licence thus given them, they assume and air of infallibility and unaccountableness. Consequently their word becomes law in the region in which they live. In short they become Popes within their own domains. Those under them may be commanded to make ropes from sand, or dam the raging ocean, and they, like the children of Israel of old when commanded to make bricks without straw, must obey. But we would venture to hope that such absolutism cannot long survive in this free country of ours. If the united powers of Europe are engaged to crush and extirpate tyranny and despotism by an expenditure of blood and treasure such as was never known before, will we permit that cruel system of depopulation that is so sorely felt at the present crisis to exist at our very doors?

The estate of Langwell, situated in the west end of the county of Caithness, abounds in rich and fertile straths and valleys, once inhabited by a loyal and happy people. But Alas! These happy days are past and gone, and in these straths and glens, where the merry notes of the reapers wafted on the breeze as the golden grain fell before their sickles, and who were always foremost at the nation’s call to defend their country and their homes, there is nothing heard but the bleating of sheep and the bark of the shepherd’s dog. But we do not undertake to rake up the ashes of the dead, we mean only to deal with present men and their actions.

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A Native of Badbea - To be continued

My Comments:

The opening paragraph of A Native of Badbea’s letter of 1855 pulls no punches and tells his readers exactly what he thinks of the changes in land occupation and use on the Langwell estate in his lifetime. Next blog we will see that he names those he sees as ‘Popes within their own domains’.

Locked gate near Langwell

The Braemore and Langwell Estate is 52,00 acres and was purchased from Donald Horne by the Duke of Portland in 1857. After the estate changed hands the large flocks of sheep went and Langwell was developed as deer forest and hunting estate. 

How the Agitation Began - Evictions Part A

LAND REFORM IN CAITHNESS – HOW THE AGITATION BEGAN

TO THE EDITOR OF THE NORTHERN ENSIGN TUESDAY, JUNE 23, 1892

SIR,- An article appeared in your spirited journal a few weeks ago with the above heading, referring to the early action taken in the matter of Land Reform, and describing the process of the movement. I am not sure but I brought the abuse and tyranny of the landlords before the public at as early a date as that referred to by your correspondent. In September of 1855, a letter of mine appeared in the Dundee and Perth Saturday Post on the evictions in the estate of Langwell from 1830-31 to 1855. 

A Land Reform League was formed in Dundee at that time, of which I was a member, the Secretary being George Gunn, 47 Perth Road, Dundee.

I can see Alex Gunn walking to this Edward VII pillarbox

 in Peebles and posting his letter. 

After my letter appeared (I was living in Peebles at the time) I had a message from a lawyer in town wishing to see me. Accordingly I called and found the gentleman in his room. I was invited to sit down, when I was asked if I had written a letter to a Dundee paper animadverting on the management of the estate of Langwell by Mr Horne. I said I would answer that question in a Scottish fashion by putting a question to him. My letter was signed “A Native of Badbea.” I asked him had Mr Horne employed him to find out the author of that letter. He said he had not. Then I asked him how he came to know of it. He said he heard of it by a side-wind. “Well,” I said, “I did write that letter.” He asked was not Mr Horne well liked? I said Mr Horne was not, “Then,” he said, “Mr Horne might raise an action against you for writing that letter.” I answered if he should he would leave the court a blacker man than he entered it, and that he could get nothing from me by taking me to court. 

Former Courthouse, Peebles. 

Originally a sheriff court and prison, the building dates from 1848.

Then he asked if I would not write a letter to the same paper and retract what I had written in my former one. I said Mr Horne might have the power to hang me, but no power on earth would make me retract. Then he said would I not write and say that I did not intend to offend Mr Horne. I answered that I was not aware that Mr Horne was offended. It would be time enough for me to do as he suggested when I knew that Mr Horne was offended at my letter. I never heard a word more about that letter to this day. 

This gentleman was a Tory agent for Mr Horne, for a small estate that he had in Roxburgh-shire.

I have a cutting of this letter, and this was I think the first time I appeared in print. With your permission, I beg to send you the letter for publication should you have spare corner in your spirited journal. About this time I began corresponding with the Ensign, as I have continued to expose the cruelty and oppression of the Langwell lairds of former times to this day. – I am &c,

A NATIVE OF BADBEA

My Comments:

Alexander Gunn aka A Native of Badbea was amazing. Here he is, still keeping the issues in front of the public 37 years after he first published a fearless letter exposing the treatment by the proprietors of small-time crofters on the Langwell estate.

I will publish the original letter in two or three blogs following this as it was quite long.

Gunn was asking for trouble from Donald Horne, as in 1855 at the time of the publication of his critical letter Horne still owned Langwell (he sold it in 1857). Horne was also litigious and very likely to do exactly what he threatened Gunn with – that was take court action against him. Unfazed Gunn met him head on and Horne pulled his head in, no doubt knowing that a court case would indeed leave him publicly uncovered. 

Cholera

Some Reminiscences of Helmsdale  Part D

Published in the Northern Ensign on 22 July 1890

To The Editor of the Northern Ensign

Cholera in Helmsdale

“Helmsdale suffered severely from the cholera scourge that passed over the country in the summer of 1832." 

Sketch of a Girl who died of cholera, in Sunderland, November, 1831 artist unknown.

"The herring-fishing boats from the south brought the disease with them, and in some cases one or more of the crew died during the passage. Latterly, the excitement got to such a height that the people lined the beach and stoned the boats attempting to land, when they had to put to sea again with some of their number dead on board.”

CHOLERA HOSPITAL IN HELMSDALE

“There was a cholera hospital erected in the town, and a man named Hugh Gordon and his wife Babie Mhore, Big Barbara, were put in charge and though they had to handle all the living and the dead in the hospital, they escaped the contagion, while the doctor of the place was cut off and died within that year.  

HINTS RESPECTING CHOLERA was circulated by the Inverness Board of Health, Inverness, 6^th September, 1832.

The cholera epidemic originated in India in 1829. Its cause was unknown. The correlation between cholera and contaminated drinking water was not discovered until 1854

 http://www.ambaile.org.uk

THEY FLED

"As soon as they heard of the dreaded disease being there, they fled, and went down to ports on the Caithness coast such as Dunbeath and Lybster. As for Wick, the plague broke out there also and a good many of the people of the place were carried away by the disease. Though other places had a second visit of the dread disease, it never reached Helmsdale again."

I am Etc

A Native of Badbea

Glasgow, July 1890

My Comments:

"When the report was heard at Wick that cholera was raging in Helmsdale, more than one hundred of those who were engaged as fishermen in Wick, belonging to the West coast and Skye, abandoned the work with horror, and left the town at night without their masters' consent. Being loath to take the usual road home, as Helmsdale was straight before them on their way, they steered their course through the mountains of Lord Reay's country and Sutherland. They had no money or provisions for their journey, and there were no houses during great part of their solitary and painful travel in the mountains. Some of their companions who left Wick along with them, have not as yet been seen or heard of; and whether they have returned to their masters at Wick, or perished in the mountains with hunger and fatigue, is not known." Inverness Courier.

A day or two ago, in an adjoining village, a tall raw-boned son of the Green Island was pursued by those harmless doves beadles. Pat was aware of their approach to his mansion, and, having put on a red nightcap, remained undaunted at their appearance. On being told he must accompany them to gaol, " Hold back," said he, "as you value your precious existence. I’m an Asiatic cholera patient; and, if you come one step nearer me, as I live, I'll blow my pestilential breath on you." A word is enough to the wise—the beadles postponed their call.

http://archive.spectator.co.uk/article/1st-september-1832/7/scotland

October 10.—There is a striking account of the introduction of cholera into the North of Scotland, and its ravages in Easter Ross, written by Hugh Miller. "In the month of July 1832," he says, "the disease was introduced by some South countrymen, fishermen, into the town of Wick, and a village of Sutherlandshire [Helmsdale]; and from the latter place, on the following August, into the fishing villages of the peninsula of Easter Ross. It visited Inverness, Nairn, Dingwall, Urquhart, and Rosemarkie, a few weeks after. In the villages of Ross the disease assumed a more terrible aspect than it had yet presented in any other part of Britain. In the little village of Portmahomack one-fifth of the inhabitants were swept away; in the still smaller village of Inver nearly one-half. 

So abject was the poverty of the people that in some instances there was not a bit of candle in any house in a whole village; and when the disease seized the inmates in the night-time, they had to grapple in darkness with its fierce pains and mortal terrors, and their friends, in the vain attempt to assist them, had to grope round their beds. Before morning they were in most instances beyond the reach of medicine. 

The infection spread with frightful rapidity. In Inver, though the population did not much exceed a hundred persons, eleven bodies were committed to the earth without shroud or coffin in one day; in two days after they had buried nineteen more. Many survivors fled from the village, leaving behind them the dead and the dying, and took shelter, some in the woods and some among the hollows of an extensive track of sandhills. But the pest followed them to their hiding place, and they expired in the open air. Whole families were found lying dead on their cottage floors. In one instance an infant, the only survivor, lay grovelling on the body of its mother, wailing feebly among the dead, the sole mourner in the charnel-house of the pestilence. Two young persons, a lad and his sister, were seen digging a grave for their father in the church-yard of Nigg, and then carrying the corpse to it on a cart, no one venturing to assist them." Such is a contemporary account of the horrors of this painful time. From the "Inverness Courier." 1832.

Photo from Timespan exhibition

“The Want of Carelessness”

Written by Alexander Gunn aka A Native of Badbea. 

Part C continued from Helmsdale Part B

Published in the Northern Ensign on 22 July 1890

To The Editor of the Northern Ensign

“…and Donald Ross in the Commercial, a man much respected by the travelling public.”

“From the Commercial the mail coach started her journeys south and north. The bugle was sounded coming from the south at the back of the park, and coming from the north down at the Boghals, to warn the strappers to have the horses in readiness when the coach arrived. Angus Mackay was guard – a good-natured, kind hearten man, ready to give a free lift at a time if out of sight of his employer. On being spoken to on one occasion for a breach of orders he declared that he could not resist the temptation of giving a lift to 'an old man or a bonnie lassie’.”

What Gunn refers to as Boghals is shown on the map as Bogholes.

Scottish Post Office Directories Scotland 1837
Pigot & Co’s national commercial directory. Page 772

“Mr Ross had a peculiar way of expressing himself when any awkward thing happened about his premises. He would say, 'It is just the want of carelessness!’ 

Kildonan Census 1851 Freecen

"I am pleased to know that Mrs Ross carries on the business of the Commercial still with as much of the esteem of the public as ever. She has seen her jubilee in the Commercial and I am sure it would be a pleasure to all who ever came in contact with her to give some tangible proof of their appreciation of her genial and honourable dealings with all and sundry of her numerous customers.”

My Comments:

The Commercial Inn was built in 1816. At a much later date it was renamed The Bridge Hotel because of its close proximity to the Telford Bridge.

It seems that Mrs Margaret Ross outlived Mr Donald Ross. Their son George eventually took over the management of the hotel.

The Helmsdale Bridge was built by Thomas Telford in 1811