Noble Duke and Duchess

The Duke and Duchess of Portland at Badbea

Langwell Lairds Past and Present – Is it the Dawn of a New Day?

Written by Alexander Gunn aka A Native of Badbea. Printed in the Northern Ensign 26 June 1894 Part D

To the Editor of the Northern Ensign

Continued from previous blog..

The Sixth Duke and Duchess of Portland

Source: http://www.nottshistory.org.uk/portland1907/portland8.htm

“But I must return to the noble Duke and Duchess, who wandered along as far as Auchincraig, and down to the shore, deserted and forgotten. Well do I remember when 13 boats went out from that creek during the herring fishing season, when thousands of barrels of herrings were cured, and hundreds of pounds of hard cash circulated in the district: but when Auchincraig was desolated this industry ceased. 

From the North East Folklore Archive

One wonders what was the Duke's idea in visiting these places, and causing the path down to the shore to be repaired. Has he been thinking of repairing the waste places, and putting Auchincraig under inhabitants once more? The Duke has done many noble and commendable deeds since coming into possession, but such a deed as I am surmising as possible would add a laurel to his crown far above and beyond any of his former acts. Auchincraig, divided into lots, with hill pasture all the way to the Black Dyke to the east, and below the turnpike road to the west as far as Auld House, Eshlaven, Clashvrick, adjoining Auchincraig, where there were three tenants, would make a fine lot for one with a share of the hill pasture described. Then Polbait would make a nice little lot. Then one tenant in the Borgue, and four or five in the Slure, with hill pasture, all below the turnpike road to the Ord on the west and to the quarry west of the Black Park on the side of Ousdale - such a division would leave the Ousdale tenant with a very respectable farm and on the other hand it would not disturb the Duke's deer. Then the repairing of the path to the shore would have some meaning and some use too.”

To be continued...

A close look at the Google Earth picture of Achnacraig shows the 

remains of two possible tracks down the hill to the shore. 

My Comments:

Achnacraig and Auchincraig, Highlands are the same place. There are probably other places with similar names in Scotland.

It is interesting that back in the days of intense crofter occupancy, every small hamlet had its own name, significance and could be easily located. Plus Alexander Gunn's remarkable memory recalls these places. 

There are plenty of on-line resources discussing the importance of the herring industry to the north of Scotland. See for example http://www.nefa.net. For decades Alexander Gunn wrote with unabated wrath and passion about Donald Horne’s closing down the fishing industry and clearing the residents at Auchnacraig. No real justification was ever found for this senseless clearance and loss of both an income and way of life for the residents. Looking at the maps it is clear that the steep land at Auchnacraig would never be productive farmed with sheep. The Ousdale farm nearby was not part of the Achnacraig activities.

As usual Alexander Gunn repeats his wish that these lost hamlets will one day be restored to Langwell tenants.

Sworn at!

The Duke and Duchess of Portland at Badbea

Langwell Lairds Past and Present – Is it the Dawn of a New Day?

Written by Alexander Gunn aka A Native of Badbea. Printed in the Northern Ensign 26 June 1894 Part C

To the Editor of the Northern Ensign

Continued from previous blog..

“The old laird was not such a bad man, although he was very passionate, and the least thing set him in a rage, when his language was anything but polite. There was a man George Grant, one of the Auchincraig tenants, with whom, for some cause or other, the laird got angry, and swore at him. George was relating the incident to some of his neighbours after returning home, and he was asked, "And what did you do George?" "I swore at him," was the reply. The statement was doubted by the neighbours, when George confessed it was after he crossed the bridge that the swearing took place on his part - a distance of fully three quarters of a mile from the big house.”

Bridge on the driveway to Langwell House

“As I have said, James Horne was not without good parts, but when his nephew Donald came into possession the very first thing he did was to turn out every one of the thirteen families in Auchincraig, the Cairn, and Badrinsary.”

To be continued..

Stoddard Lectures on Ireland, 1909  “An Evicted Family” www.maggieblanck.com/Mayopages/Eviction.html

My Comments:

It is not difficult to find comments indicting that others did not have a high opinion of either James or Donald Horne, for example:

'.......but of James Horne I have a very different opinion, in all respects, a most troublesome, litigious man as ever was.”

Source: Dep 313 National Library, Edinburgh. Letter to Marchioness of Stafford, 16th Dec. from Wm Young, Factor.

“The grandfather of Donald Horne WS was a blacksmith, without any connexions among the gentry, but a clever fellow who made money, bought a piece of land called Scouthal, gave his family a good education, and was latterly received in Society. One son, if I remember right, entered the Army and died s.p. Another was Count Horne [James] who made a considerable fortune as a WS and died a bachelor. He left the bulk of his means to his nephew Donald. I remember the Count, an old man with a large red nose (which the Collector says he derived from his father) crawling about the streets of Edinburgh and turning round as a young and pretty girl passed and gaping after her with a goatish stare. This propensity also he derived from the old blacksmith, and among them they transmitted it to Donald whose pranks are notorious, and were at one time likely to prove dangerous to himself. Donald's father had the same failing. He lived always in the Country, married a respectable lady of the name of Williamson, and enjoyed an indifferent reputation. He in fact was about the worst man of the Clan.

Source: JAMES ROBERTSON'S JOURNAL JBL 98 1 1842 Journal or Book of Memoranda & Jottings kept by James Robertson Sheriff Substitute Commenced at Stornoway 21 July 1841 continued at Tobermory 27 March 1842 and at Kirkwall on 14 March 1846 Vol: II. Kirkwall 31 January 1847 J.R.

Ruins at Achnacraig

But and Ben

The Duke and Duchess of Portland at Badbea

Langwell Lairds Past and Present – Is it the dawn of a New Day?

Written by Alexander Gunn aka A Native of Badbea. Printed in the Northern Ensign 26 June 1894 Part B

To the Editor of the Northern Ensign

Continued from previous blog..

“I remember on one occasion his [James Horne] appearing in front of the house and as usual uttering the same cry; but father was not at hand that day, and it was a pouring-down shower of rain. My mother responded to the call and assisted him to alight, and as he had no umbrella or any protection from the rain, mother invited him into the house, which invitation he accepted. I question if he ever had been inside the house of any of his tenants previously, and it is very likely he had very little idea of what the interior of the house was like.”

“This is the description of the one he honoured with his presence this time:- The one entrance served for man and beast. On entering, the cattle shedded to the right and the rest of the inhabitants to the left, having a wooden partition separating the cattle and the family. There was the fire in the middle of the floor, and the peat neuk close at hand." 

"The furniture was all home-made, and ranged on each side of the fireplace: but, need I say, there was no soft-bottomed chairs - just the hard board, with a rung an inch thick in front and back.  I omitted to say there was a "but" and a "ben" but let me come back to the laird, who got to the hinder side of the partition, when mother set a chair beside him. He looked at it, but made no sign of using it. Mother divined the reason, and she went and fetched a pillow, placing it on the chair, when the laird sat down and remained till the shower ceased." 

"Then mother had the honour of holding the stirrup, when the laird mounted and moved off."

"There was great expectation and speculation amongst us youngsters as to the amount of cash that was-about to change hands for all the kind offices which were performed on this occasion: but whether the laird had left his purse behind him or failed to find a key to open his heart, we never knew. The only thing we were certain of was that he left nothing behind him to commemorate his visit.” 

“Now a stranger not acquainted with the place is apt to think that the construction and arrangements of the house I have described were exceptional. Well, they are, in so far as in many of the houses the wooden partition spoken of did not exist at all.”

To be continued...

My Comments:

Alexander Gunn gives us a vivid description of his home. It is hard to figure out the approximate size of the house. The Laidhay museum nearby at Dunbeath has a well restored 200 year old croft house but I think it was considerable larger than the Badbea houses – the stone remains of several indicate that.

A fire in the middle of the floor was common. The peat fires were so important to survival in this cold bleak place, for cooking food, keeping warm, drying clothes. They were never allowed to go out but they also got very hot. Most of the Badbea houses had no chimney with the smoke escaping through a hole on the roof.

Byre at Lower Badryrie

A byre in the abandoned crofting township of Badryrie, with flagstone stall dividers known as 'hallans'. A cruck slot (for supporting the roof) can be seen on the left hand wall.

For more information see www.caithness.org/atoz/badryrie/index.htm

What amazes me is that there were eleven children born and brought-up in this cramped ‘but and ben’ household and when the need arose there was room for more.

Alexander’s mother Marion was described in her husband’s obituary many years later as kind hearted and generous… that she most cordially and cheerfully entered into the spirit of her husband when he invited as many as ten or twelve of ‘God’s people’ to stay on sacramental occasion. So her courteous treatment of the ‘snivelling’ laird was not surprising. Sad that he did not leave even a tiny reward in recognition of Marion’s hospitality.

For more information about the Badbea houses see my blog 8 October 2013 Hovel or Habitable Home. 

Langwell Lairds Past and Present – Is it the Dawn of a New Day?

The Duke and Duchess of Portland at Badbea

Langwell Lairds Past and Present – Is it the dawn of a New Day?

Written by Alexander Gunn aka A Native of Badbea. Printed in the Northern Ensign 26 June 1894 Part A

To the Editor of the Northern Ensign:

Sir.- We are told that wonders never cease, and so true it is in regard to the wonder which I am about to relate, which is nothing less than that a real live Duke and Duchess (in the person of his Grace and Lady of Portland) a few weeks ago paid a visit to my native place, Badbea. This is the first time in its history that such exalted personages visited the humble clachan, and I suppose the only laird, of Langwell who favoured it with a visit since old James Horne used to call that way.

I remember the old man's visits. He used to call occasionally, riding a quiet dun pony. He would halt in front of our house and cry with a snivel, "John!" If my father was about at hand he responded to the call, and held the stirrup till the Laird dismounted. He then gave father the bridle, when the two walked along to Auchincraig, and after traversing the lawn, and being assisted to remount, the old laird retraced his steps back to Auchastle at a walking pace. He never put the pony to a trot.

To be continued….

My Comments:

As we know, Alexander Gunn had a deep abhorrence of the hardships the Lairds of Langwell had inflicted on their tenants. The years James and Donald Horne were the Lairds of Langwell  - 1816 to 1857 was a desperate time for the Badbea inhabitants with the increased rents to be paid and evictions always either threatened or enforced. The 5^th Duke of Portland purchased Langwell in 1857. This Duke was most remembered for his eccentric behaviour – he was a recluse who excavated an elaborate underground maze and tunnels under his estate at Welbeck Abbey. He wasn’t likely to be seen wandering round Badbea.

His cousin, the next Duke of Portland, was William John Arthur Charles James Cavendish-Bentink. His wife was Winifred Anna Dallas-Yorke. They lived like royals in the Welbeck Abbey in Nottinghamshire and owned other estates including Langwell in Caithness. The Portlands visited the Langwell estate from time to time on shooting expeditions. It must be these two that Alexander Gunn is so surprised to hear had visited Badbea. And well he might be surprised as we know how inhospitable and dangerous this landscape was and certainly not a likely afternoon stroll for ‘such exalted personages’.

William Cavendish Bentinck, 6th Duke of Portland by Elliott & Fry

Winifred Duchess of Portland by John Singer Sargent 1902

However, a bit of research reveals more about them both. 

One commentator says:

The Duke and Duchess of Portland were respectful and generous to the hundreds of staff they employed. Most of their staff had a job for life and were well cared for in the estate’s own hospital block when they were ill, and at such time nothing was deducted from their wages – at a time when the working classes had no privileges nor any help from the government. The Duchess of Portland was a passionate animal lover who kept stables for old horse and ponies, as well as old dogs. She also prevailed upon her husband to have some ‘alms-houses’ built for poor old women at Welbeck.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winifred_Cavendish-Bentinck,_Duchess_of_Portland

http://www.nottshistory.org.uk/portland1907/portland8.htm

It is this Duke that much later installed the Grey Hen’s Well memorial stone.

True to that closest to his heart soon Gunn diverges to write about Badbea and the laird James Horne.  He comes back to the Duke and Duchess of Portland before he closes his letter.  

At the time of the 1894 visit of the Portlands there were probably still a few families living in the area. The 1891 census shows at Badbea John Gunn and his family. John finally left Badbea in 1911. Also at Badbea is old Donald Sutherland and his family. Achnacraig has a four Sutherland women, two quite elderly – how they managed to survive is hard to imagine. 

Piece: SCT1891/38 Place: Latheron -Caithness Enumeration District: 19 Civil Parish: Latheron Ecclesiastical Parish, Village or Island: Berriedale Folio: 0 Page: 2 Schedule: 9 Address: Badbea

Surname

First name(s)

Rel

Status

Sex

Age

Occupation

Where Born

Remarks

GUNN

John

Head

M

M

45

Crofter

Sutherland - Kildonan

Language: Both

GUNN

Jessie

Wife

M

F

45

-

Caithness - Badbea

Language: Both

GUNN

Donaldina

Dau

-

F

12

Scholar

Caithness - Badbea

GUNN

Mary

Dau

-

F

8

Scholar

Caithness - Badbea

GUNN

Donald

Son

-

M

7

Badbea

Caithness - Latheron

GRANT

Georgina

Ma-Law

W

F

79

-

Sutherland - Brora

Language: Both

Piece: SCT1891/38 Place: Latheron -Caithness Enumeration District: 19 Civil Parish: Latheron Ecclesiastical Parish, Village or Island: Berriedale Folio: 0 Page: 2 Schedule: 8 Address: Badbea

Surname

First name(s)

Rel

Status

Sex

Age

Occupation

Where Born

Remarks

SUTHERLAND

Donald

Head

W

M

80

Crofter(Notem)

Sutherland - Kildonan

Language: Both

MCPHERSON

Hannah

Dau

M

F

31

-

Sutherland - Kildonan

MCPHERSON

Alexander

Sonlaw

M

M

30

Farm Servant(Em'ee)

Aberdeenshire - Huntly

MCPHERSON

Barbara

Grndau

-

F

2

-

Caithness - Latheron

PATERSON

Maggie

Servnt

-

F

13

General Servant

Caithness - Latheron

Piece: SCT1891/38 Place: Latheron -Caithness Enumeration District: 19 Civil Parish: Latheron Ecclesiastical Parish, Village or Island: Berriedale Folio: 0 Page: 2 Schedule: 7 Address: Achnacraig

Surname

First name(s)

Rel

Status

Sex

Age

Occupation

Where Born

Remarks

SUTHERLAND

Hannah

Head

W

F

81

Annuitant

Caithness - Latheron

Language: Both

SUTHERLAND

Isabella

Dau

U

F

58

General Servant

Caithness - Latheron

Language: Both

SUTHERLAND

Catherine

Dau

U

F

52

General Servant

Caithness - Latheron

Language: Both

SCT1891/38 Place: Latheron -Caithness Enumeration District: 19 Civil Parish: Latheron Ecclesiastical Parish, Village or Island: Berriedale Folio: 0 Page: 2 Schedule: 6 Address: Achnacraig

Surname

First name(s)

Rel

Status

Sex

Age

Occupation

Where Born

Remarks

SUTHERLAND

Janet

Head

W

F

78

Annuitant

Caithness - Latheron

Language: Both