But and Ben

The Duke and Duchess of Portland at Badbea

Langwell Lairds Past and Present – Is it the dawn of a New Day?

Written by Alexander Gunn aka A Native of Badbea. Printed in the Northern Ensign 26 June 1894 Part B

To the Editor of the Northern Ensign

Continued from previous blog..

“I remember on one occasion his [James Horne] appearing in front of the house and as usual uttering the same cry; but father was not at hand that day, and it was a pouring-down shower of rain. My mother responded to the call and assisted him to alight, and as he had no umbrella or any protection from the rain, mother invited him into the house, which invitation he accepted. I question if he ever had been inside the house of any of his tenants previously, and it is very likely he had very little idea of what the interior of the house was like.”

“This is the description of the one he honoured with his presence this time:- The one entrance served for man and beast. On entering, the cattle shedded to the right and the rest of the inhabitants to the left, having a wooden partition separating the cattle and the family. There was the fire in the middle of the floor, and the peat neuk close at hand." 

"The furniture was all home-made, and ranged on each side of the fireplace: but, need I say, there was no soft-bottomed chairs - just the hard board, with a rung an inch thick in front and back.  I omitted to say there was a "but" and a "ben" but let me come back to the laird, who got to the hinder side of the partition, when mother set a chair beside him. He looked at it, but made no sign of using it. Mother divined the reason, and she went and fetched a pillow, placing it on the chair, when the laird sat down and remained till the shower ceased." 

"Then mother had the honour of holding the stirrup, when the laird mounted and moved off."

"There was great expectation and speculation amongst us youngsters as to the amount of cash that was-about to change hands for all the kind offices which were performed on this occasion: but whether the laird had left his purse behind him or failed to find a key to open his heart, we never knew. The only thing we were certain of was that he left nothing behind him to commemorate his visit.” 

“Now a stranger not acquainted with the place is apt to think that the construction and arrangements of the house I have described were exceptional. Well, they are, in so far as in many of the houses the wooden partition spoken of did not exist at all.”

To be continued...

My Comments:

Alexander Gunn gives us a vivid description of his home. It is hard to figure out the approximate size of the house. The Laidhay museum nearby at Dunbeath has a well restored 200 year old croft house but I think it was considerable larger than the Badbea houses – the stone remains of several indicate that.

A fire in the middle of the floor was common. The peat fires were so important to survival in this cold bleak place, for cooking food, keeping warm, drying clothes. They were never allowed to go out but they also got very hot. Most of the Badbea houses had no chimney with the smoke escaping through a hole on the roof.

Byre at Lower Badryrie

A byre in the abandoned crofting township of Badryrie, with flagstone stall dividers known as 'hallans'. A cruck slot (for supporting the roof) can be seen on the left hand wall.

For more information see www.caithness.org/atoz/badryrie/index.htm

What amazes me is that there were eleven children born and brought-up in this cramped ‘but and ben’ household and when the need arose there was room for more.

Alexander’s mother Marion was described in her husband’s obituary many years later as kind hearted and generous… that she most cordially and cheerfully entered into the spirit of her husband when he invited as many as ten or twelve of ‘God’s people’ to stay on sacramental occasion. So her courteous treatment of the ‘snivelling’ laird was not surprising. Sad that he did not leave even a tiny reward in recognition of Marion’s hospitality.

For more information about the Badbea houses see my blog 8 October 2013 Hovel or Habitable Home.